Nana

Monday is a dark day for sushi lovers in Park Slope. Blue Ribbon Sushi is closed, the door that leads to Gingko Leaf's Japanese garden paradise is locked (Closed as of 2004), and Geido's sushi bar is empty of rollicking patrons sharing bottles of Kirin. Last night, my friend and I wandered down 7th Avenue, mournfully listing options that were unavailable to us.

In frustration, my friend suggested getting Italian food. At that moment, a light went on in my head in the shape of the neon sign at Nana on 5th Avenue. I vaguely remembered appreciating the grilled salmon at this stylish pan-Asian, but I'd always satisfied my sushi cravings elsewhere. However, since there is nothing so uncomfortable as an unsatisfied longing for tuna sashimi, we decided to give Nana a try.

The yellowtail ceviche appetizer was a good omen: a colorful confetti of julienned red onions, peppers and carrots and small pieces of fish in a light soy vinaigrette. Well-salted edamame soon followed, and then it was time for the sashimi! My platter was a generous assortment of about 20 pieces of octopus, yellowtail, tuna, salmon, snapper, and scallop. I breathed a sigh of relief as the sushi beast was (temporarily) kept at bay.

Nana: 155 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 230-3749.